I also choose to believe in the collective good and the power of the international surfing community. I know we haven’t always and aren’t always good to each other. We’re far from perfect. But we are finding ways to be better – to ourselves, our earth, our oceans and our neighbors from all around the world.
Those neighbors include surfers in Gaza, and in Palestine.
Read MoreFor a young girl trying to make community in a brand new city so far from home, I was awe struck by her to say the least. So awe struck, in fact, that I didn’t introduce myself. I watched from where I sold (or didn’t sell) my photography and imagined having a community of friends like her – a community of women who saw the beauty and magic in surfing the way I did.
Read MoreI had used it for a long time – Years really. And I was proud of it. I really thought I was doing a good thing. I was choosing my language intentionally. I was resisting the idea that the word “men” needed to be included in the word “women” – that there was a rigid gender binary or that women didn’t make sense, or couldn’t truly exist, without men. I was being inclusive. I was being progressive. I was making a statement.
Wasn’t I?
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